Chanel Misia, an Eau de Parfum from the prestigious Les Exclusifs de Chanel collection, isn't just a fragrance; it's an experience. It's a journey into a bygone era of opulence and sophistication, a fragrant portrait of Misia Sert, the muse who inspired its creation. This review will delve deep into the multifaceted nature of Misia, exploring its complex accords, evolution on the skin, and overall impact, drawing upon various perspectives and reviews from esteemed fragrance critics and enthusiasts.
The immediate consensus, as echoed in reviews from sources like Now Smell This and countless personal blogs, is that Chanel Misia is a fragrance built around a dominant cosmetic powder accord. It's not the clean, sterile powder of a modern baby powder scent; instead, it's the rich, slightly aged, and undeniably luxurious powder found in vintage compacts and antique dressing tables. This is immediately apparent in the opening, which, as described by Luca Turin in his seminal work *Perfumes: The Guide*, is a cloud of sugared violets. This isn't a shy, timid violet; it's bold, almost heady, a sugared confection that immediately grabs attention. This violet is not the fresh, green violet leaf often found in modern perfumes; rather, it's a deep, almost jammy violet, imbued with a sweetness that borders on gourmand without ever fully crossing the line.
This initial burst of sugared violets is intricately interwoven with sheer berry notes, adding a touch of tartness that prevents the sweetness from becoming cloying. These berries are not overtly fruity; they act more as a subtle counterpoint to the violet, providing a delicate acidity that keeps the overall composition balanced and prevents it from becoming one-dimensional. The description of "cut through" in the provided content alludes to the way these contrasting notes interact, creating a dynamic interplay that keeps the fragrance constantly evolving. This initial impression of a vibrant, almost theatrical violet-berry accord is what initially draws many in, but it's only the beginning of Misia's captivating journey.
As Misia settles on the skin, the cosmetic powder accord truly takes center stage. This isn't just any powder; it’s a meticulously crafted blend that evokes the feeling of luxurious, antique makeup. It possesses a depth and complexity that's rarely found in modern fragrances. This powder note is not simply a single ingredient; it's a carefully constructed accord, likely built upon a base of iris, orris root, and possibly even a touch of heliotrope, contributing to its creamy, slightly earthy undertones. The iris, in particular, plays a crucial role in imparting a velvety texture to the scent, enhancing the overall impression of opulence and sophistication.
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